22 November 2016

honeymoon in croatia | zagreb.

we landed in zagreb on a steel grey afternoon, collected our car (or, husband's preferred name, our chariot), and made way into upper town. i was immediately taken with how moodily november had colored the city and how romantic i found the scene of golden leaves brushing against medieval wood and stone to be.

after settling into our room, we set off for an early supper, stopping into a bakery for filo filled with pumpkin and ducking into a cozy tavern to feast on tomato soup and hearth bread.

later, i stayed up all night watching the election returns, my new husband sleeping beside me. it felt terribly strange, watching it all unfold a world away, my heart heavy and disappointed for my friends and family and neighbors, my future children and the world they'll inherit. i shuddered under my blankets thinking that, god willing, at least one, if not all, of our children will be born under this coming presidency, and how i want so much more for them, for their world. it could -- it should -- be so much better, safer, more loving, more inclusive. we honored our time away together by disconnecting and disengaging from news and commentary -- knowing full well the mess would surely await us back home -- but waiting out election night in zagreb is a memory i won't forget.

in the morning, we plotted our day over breads and jams and fresh orange juice. we meandered tkalciceva street, lively and vibrant with café society, and sipped white coffee -- coffee with steamed milk. we delighted in the thirteenth century roof tiles of st. mark's church. we wandered dolac market, our eyes roving fruits and vegetables, hauled by traders from across croatia. we tinkered with wooden toys and woven baskets and colorful textiles. we bought a pound of clementines to share on our drive west.

our places of interest peppered the coast; we began in zagreb out of pure necessity, as travel options to and from croatia are slim, especially this time of year. however, on our way out of town, we agreed: we are so glad our honeymoon began in beautiful zagreb.

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