the stretch of road between rovinj and trogir was long, and we needed somewhere in the middle to stop and stretch our legs and spend a night. enter zadar, giver of one of our best meals (truffle pasta and smoked ham and fig cake) and a host of roman ruins. our morning in zadar, we were up with the seagulls exploring old town, wandering the vegetable market, and lingering by the sea organ, tubes burrowed under marble steps that play music -- random, but harmonic -- by way of the wind and the waves. the sea organ stunned us. we are still talking about its sweet tune.