honeymoon in croatia | rovinj.

our journey from samobor to rovinj took us through the mountains -- some were snowy! -- and down to the sea. we pulled into rovinj by nightfall and marveled at its twinkle -- what a dreamy town it is! one of the last true mediterranean fishing ports, rovinj is nestled into wooded, rolling hills. tiny boats bob in the harbor. cathedral bells count the hours. lush, overgrown pots of herbs line stoops and steps. laundry dances on lines in the breeze. a web of cobblestone streets seem to stretch on forever. the pretty church of st. euphemia sits high above the town, catching fisherpeople's prayers for good catch. wool blankets folded atop outdoor cafe tables invite you to perch under red striped awnings and stay awhile.

rovinj is where we really settled into the rhythm of our honeymoon days. a long sleep, a big breakfast, a wander, a lingering cafe stop, a wander, a nap, a wine stop, an early dinner, a cozy evening in, repeat. one thing about us -- we positively love off-season travel. threat of quiet or cold doesn't scare us in the least. rather, we are enticed by the prospect of experiencing a place in the real, in the raw, once the tourists have flown. while the summer months are a veritable feast of yachts and caves and swimming spots, november in croatia is delightfully chilly (read: cozy) and the small port towns are mostly shuttered for winter, paving way for local color to really shine through. afternoons, we'd order espresso and wine and watch people, chat with waiters, read (him), and write (me). come mealtimes, we'd take off on foot down streets closed to cars and tuck into cozy taverns, chatting with locals, sipping istrian wine, and dining on whatever fish was caught that day. driving along the dalmatian coast in november isn't for everyone, but it is certainly for us. it is utterly romantic.